Scottsbluff to Rapid City

Scottsbluff to Rapid City




NCAA Football Quiz: Last year I went through a number of schools and left off with Texas. So picking it up… 1) Texas A&M had its best stretch 1992-94, with three straight AP top ten season-ending rankings. Who was the coach? 2) Who was Texas A&M’s QB from 1979-82, initials G.K.? 3) Who was their kicker from 1975-78, initials T.F.? 4) Who is the only back for TCU to rush for 2,000 yards in a season? [All the correct picks played in the NFL.] Answers below. 

[Rapid City, South Dakota, Monday a.m.]
 
So on Saturday, my brother and I flew to Denver, where we immediately hopped in our Ford Fusion (nice car) and headed to Scottsbluff, Nebraska. Luckily, we have Sirius Radio in our car so we listened to college football during the long drive and upon arriving in Scottsbluff, hit Applebees for a few beers to watch the end of Texas-Oklahoma State. [28-24 win for the #1 Longhorns, who next up have undefeated Texas Tech as their incredible four week stretch…Oklahoma, Missouri, Oklahoma State and Texas Tech…continues.]
 
Then we went to Ole restaurant, a Mexican joint I’ve enjoyed in the past, and then it was back to the hotel for more beers watching Penn State-Ohio State and a little of the rain-delayed World Series.
 
So…duly fortified with hops, barley, malt and water clear, we set out Sunday morning for Scotts Bluff National Monument (the town and monument are spelled differently), a place I described to you two years ago, and Bro was in agreement it is truly one of the five or seven most beautiful places in the country. Only one problem. It was freakin’ freezing. Like 33 degrees with a 40-mph wind. You drive up to the top of this bluff and with the wind and all, and the sheer drops, older Bro got a little vertigo. Not wanting to complete the trip by myself, since the purpose was for a week’s brotherly experience, we kept close to the paths. Seriously, if you haven’t been here (western Nebraska), it’s worth the trip.
 
The rest of Sunday we drove to Chadron, Nebraska…a place I told you about two years ago…and finally found the college, Chadron State, where the great Danny Woodhead, college football’s all-time leading rusher, played his ball. Unfortunately, Danny, signed as a free agent by the Jets last spring, ripped his knee up the first day of practice and probably won’t get another shot. Anyway, the school was a neat place but, alas, the book store was closed and I couldn’t buy close family and friends a Chadron State t-shirt.
 
Then it was another 120 miles or so from Chadron to Rapid City. I had been thinking of taking my brother to White Clay, Nebraska, on the border with South Dakota and the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, but it’s kind of out of the way. White Clay, some may recall, is a place I drove through two years ago and it was a scene out of ‘Night of the Living Dead.’ I’ve since learned that the little town is one of the biggest dispensers of beer in the country (the AP noted in that it sells “about 4 million cans of beer every year”), because it is next to Pine Ridge and Pine Ridge officials are trying to cut down on the alcoholism with the Indians…ergo, they buy their beer in the closest town to the reservation. 
 
Well we got to Rapid City, after listening to the entire Jets game and the beginning of Giants-Steelers, thanks again to Sirius Satellite Radio (man, for long drives on weekends it’s fantastic), and promptly hit the Dublin pub, across from our hotel. Except it was closed…on a Sunday during football season! But, wait…there’s a sports bar down the road and it was a beaut. You never heard more girls using salty language in your life. I’ve warned my brother that in some of these trips I’ve taken, you need to keep your guard up and this was basically one of them. Some creepy folks here. But tasty beer and a great spot to view the second half of Giants-Steelers. [A lot of Giants fans in Rapid City, by the way.]
 
So it’s now late Sunday night and I’m scrambling. First off, on the college football front, here is the latest AP Top Ten poll.
 
1. Texas 8-0
2. Alabama 8-0
3. Penn State 9-0
4. Oklahoma 7-1
5. Florida 6-1
6. Texas Tech 8-0
7. USC 6-1
8. Georgia 7-1
9. Oklahoma State 7-1
10. Utah 8-0
 
11. Boise State 7-0
18. Ball State 8-0
19. Tulsa 7-0
 
And the BCS poll
 
1. Texas
2. Alabama
3. Penn State
4. Oklahoma
5. USC
10. Utah
 
Utah has a solid shot at gaining a BCS berth, but Boise State doesn’t….or so that’s my reading of things.
 
I was a miserable 2-3 on my picks this week and am now just 12-11 on the year…4-10 after an 8-1 start.
 
But my phone is ringing….. “Hi, Bro….yeah, sure, I’ll meet you down at the bar for a few more beers…”….
 
OK, I’m back….three beers later and Phillies up 8-2. Such is life when traveling with your brother.
 
I clip out stuff during any week, as you can imagine, so here’s a bit from Greg Kot of the Chicago Tribune on the career of Levi Stubbs of the Four Tops, who passed away about ten days ago.
 
Kot identified three songs that made Levi unique.
 
“Reach Out I’ll Be There”
 
“Released August 1966, No. 1 pop hit.
 
“Stubbs throws a lifeline to a friend dying of neglect. Realizing the situation is desperate, he sings as if someone’s life depends on it, and it just might; the lyrics hint that a suicide is imminent (‘all of your hope is gone’).
 
“The three remaining Tops (Obie Benson, Duke Fakir and Lawrence Payton) usher in Stubbs with a wordless ‘Ha!’ as if spurring on a stallion. The beat clip-clops into place, a flute telegraphs melody, and then the peerless Motown rhythm section locks into gear. The drama elevates each time the band drops out, save for James Jamerson’s driving bass guitar line and a rattling tambourine.”
 
“Stubbs lands hard on the final syllable of key lines: ‘..the world has grown cold…drifting out on your own…and you need a hand to hold.’ Stubbs isn’t just offering help to a friend in a time of need. He is pleading for her deliverance.
 
“With each ‘reach out,’ Benson, Fakir and Payton push Stubbs higher, until desperation cracks through the seams in his voice.”
 
Great stuff. The others for Kot are “Standing in the Shadows of Love” and “Bernadette.”
 
–Uh oh…the Puget Sound killer whales are in danger. It seems seven of 90 are missing and presumed dead “in what could be the biggest decline among the sound’s orcas in nearly a decade, say scientists who carefully track the endangered animals.”
 
And get this…from the AP.
 
“Among those missing since last year’s count is the nearly century-old leader of one of three southern resident pods.”
 
Geezuz. A century old?! Evidently, the population has fluctuated significantly over the years so here’s wishing them the best.
 
–Jeff B., it would appear, is like many of you when it comes to Tiger the dog, of Brady Bunch fame. “I never forgave the mutt for knocking over Mike and Carroll’s wedding cake.” You’re not walking alone, my friend. You’re not walking alone.
 
–Sports Illustrated did a piece on great first entrances, first games. For example, Real Cloutier of Quebec was one of just two in NHL history to score three goals in his first game, the other being Alex Smart of Montreal in 1943.
 
But did you know that Wilt Chamberlain, in his very first NBA game, had 43 points and 28 rebounds?! You think that’s good? Try the fact that he had 52 points in his debut game with Kansas!
 
–SI is picking the Spurs to defeat the Celtics in the NBA Finals this year. Sorry to be a weany, but I like the Spurs, too.
 
I just have to add that I’m in my Wachovia bank branch the other day as I’m consolidating some accounts, and I end up dealing with Kendall. I see a great picture of him and his little boy, both in Nets jerseys, and comment to that effect, adding, “Are you a Nets fan?” “No…Knicks.”
 
Well, we got to talking, and we’re both mildly optimistic. Like maybe 38-44.
 
–Did you see this bit about Lindsay Lohan? She was cut from “Ugly Betty.” You see, according to the New York Post…
 
“Lindsay ‘would obsessively cut pictures of herself out of the tabloids like she was creating some sort of scrapbook and refused to go on set until America was there – it was a power play.’
 
In another episode, Lohan, playing Betty’s school nemesis, would “de-pants” star America Ferrera. “But Ferrera exacts her revenge and pulls down Lohan’s pants instead. ‘Lindsay wasn’t wearing any underwear,’ the source said.”
 
Wouldn’t you know, a friend of Lohan’s countered, “Linday wears underwear all the time now. She was wearing a G-string.”
 
As John McCain would say, “Friends, this is very confusing.”
 
And now…some oldies but goodies from out West.

The story of Hiram Scott

Back to Scotts Bluff National Monument in Scottsbluff, Nebraska, for the tale of how the place got its name. ‘Gather round kids, but grab a beer for me while you’re up.’

[I’m working on a catchphrase, a la Vin Scully’s “so pull up a chair.” I think mine’s better.]

In the 1820s, fur traders like Jim Bridger began to make names for themselves. Bridger discovered the Great Salt Lake, for example, and other figures were Thomas Fitzpatrick and Robert Stuart.

Another was William Ashley, who is credited with devising a more efficient method for obtaining beaver pelts. Before Ashley, “each spring trappers would have to haul pelts gathered the previous winter all the way to St. Louis to sell them. Ashley’s idea was to have the trappers stay out on the frontier where they could spend more time gathering pelts, and he would bring pack trains loaded down with trade items and supplies to pre-arranged places. The trappers would then be able to trade their furs for items they needed and Ashley would return to St. Louis with horses loaded down with furs.” And so it was called the rendezvous system. [Source: National Park Service guide to Scotts Bluff, $2.00 retail]

But in 1828, the rendezvous led to a tragic event. The story concerns Hiram Scott, an employee of the American Fur Company, symbol FUR on the New York Stock Exchange. [When it rallies, the traders like to say, “The FUR be flyin’!”]

Scott had been an employee of the outfit for about five years and was serving as a clerk at the rendezvous in Wyoming, but somehow he met his death.

William A. Ferris, who traveled up the Platte River in 1830 [recall the Platte parallels Scotts Bluff], made the earliest recorded description of Scott’s death.

“We encamped opposite ‘Scott’s Bluffs’ so called in respect to the memory of a young man who was left here alone to die a few years previous. He was a clerk in a company returning from the mountains, the leader of which found it necessary to leave him behind at a place some distance above this point, in consequence of a severe illness which rendered him unable to ride. He was consequently placed in a bullhide boat, in charge of two men, who had orders to convey him by water down to these bluffs, where the leader of the party promised to await their coming.  After a weary and hazardous voyage, they reach the appointed rendezvous, and found to their surprise and bitter disappointment, that the company had continued on down the river without stopping for them to overtake and join it.

“Left thus in the heart of the wilderness, hundreds of miles from any point where assistance or succor could be obtained, and surrounded by predatory bands of savages thirsting for blood and plunder, could any conditions be deemed more hopeless or deplorable? They had, moreover, in descending the river, met with some accident, either the loss of the means of procuring subsistence or defending their lives in case of discovery and attack. This unhappy circumstance, added to the fact that the river was filled with innumerable shoals and sandbars, by which its navigation was rendered almost impracticable, determined them to forsake their charge and boat together, and push on night and day until they should overtake the company, which they did on the second or third day afterward

“Poor Scott! We will not attempt to picture what his thoughts must have been after his cruel abandonment, nor harrow up the feelings of the reader, by a recital of what agonies he must have suffered before death put an end to his misery.

“The bones of a human being were found the spring following, on the opposite side of the river, which were supposed to be the remains of Scott. It was conjectured that in the energy of despair, he had found strength to carry him across the stream, and then staggered about the prairie, till God in pity took him to himself.”

Well the legend grew over time. Two years later Captain Benjamin Bonneville (I wonder if he founded the salt flats of the same name) wrote that after being abandoned, Scott somehow struggled for 60 miles on the prairie, “and it appeared that the wretched man had crawled that immense distance before death put an end to his miseries. The wild and picturesque bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave have ever since borne his name.”

And now you know ..the rest of the story. 

Mount Rushmore

I had a super day on Monday, cruising the Black Hills of South Dakota. Of course a highlight was a return to Mount Rushmore after my last trip about 35 years ago.

Mount Rushmore was the dream of Doane Robinson, superintendent of the South Dakota State Historical Society, who in 1923 had a vision of a massive mountain memorial carved from stone. But at the time Robinson thought that figures such as Custer, Buffalo Bill, and Lewis & Clark should be the ones featured in rock.

Robinson couldn’t accomplish anything, however, without money and the support of some in Washington so he enlisted the help of U.S. Senator Peter Norbeck, who then encouraged Robinson to seek a sculptor. That turned out to be Gutzon Borglum, one of America\’\’s most prolific artists. Borglum was a flamboyant sort who dreamed big, just like Robinson, but he told Doane that his life’s work would not be spent immortalizing
regional heroes. No, he would carve Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt.

In 1927, President Coolidge by chance had decided to spend a 3-week summer vacation in the Black Hills. The locals made sure everything was just right, including secretly stocking the president’s fishing streams (and blocking the ends so that the fish would have to stay in a confined area). Well, Cal was more than satisfied with the experience and decided to stay not 3 weeks but 3 months. It was then a foregone conclusion that Coolidge would pledge federal support for the Mount Rushmore project.

Over the next 14 years, what work was completed was totally dependent on outside money so, actually, out of that time period about six and a half years was actual labor, the rest of the time was spent on fundraising.

Borglum died just a few months before completion, in the spring of ‘41, and his son completed the task months later. Of the legacy he was leaving his country, Gutzon Borglum had the following comments.

“Mount Rushmore is eternal. It will stand until the end of time. Ten thousand years from now our civilization will have passed without leaving a trace. A new race of people will inhabit the earth. They will come to Mount Rushmore and read the record we have made.

“Hence, let us place here, carved high, as close to heaven as we can, the words of our leaders, their faces to show posterity what manner of men they were. Then breathe a prayer that these records will endure until the wind and the rain alone shall wear them away.”

Mount Rushmore is so bold, so brash, so American. You can’t help but stand there and think, “God I love my country.” 

The Fetterman Massacre

Back in 1866, the U.S. Government decided to build a series of forts along the Bozeman Trail, which ran from Wyoming up through Montana, to the gold fields founded by, you guessed it, Mr. Bozeman.

The forts were built not only to protect the settlers/prospectors, but also to distract the Indians from bigger business taking place to their south, that being the building of the transcontinental railroad. The Army figured that the Indians would prefer to harass the soldiers in the forts, as opposed to those working on the rails, and they were right.

You see, the Indians had previously been told that the lands in Montana Territory would be undisturbed by the white man. Instead, 3 large forts were built, one of which, Ft. Phil Kearny (named after a Union General killed in the Civil War) was manned by 250 U.S. Cavalrymen.

These forts weren’t easy to build. Ft. Phil Kearny, for example, used 4,000 logs, and so the Indians used to enjoy attacking the “wood trains” that went out and gathered the building material.

Then one day, December 21, 1866, word came that there was a wagon train that was disabled along the Bozeman Trail and Lieutenant Colonel Matthew Fetterman was sent out with 78 soldiers and two citizens to aid them. Under no circumstances, he was told, should he engage the Indians.

In the area were thousands of Sioux and Cheyenne, under the direction of Red Cloud. Well, they were waiting for such an opportunity, so when Fetterman set out with his rescue party, the Indians countered with some decoys.

Now you have to picture that Fetterman was a frustrated Colonel. There he was, stuck out in the boonies and with his career going nowhere, yet he knew that if he could kill a bunch of red men, he’d probably get a promotion back to Washington. So he fell for the trap.

I’m telling you this story because I was at the site of what was to follow just this past Saturday, and it really is spectacular. Lush, rolling hills…perfect for an ambush and just like the movies.

Fetterman took his men after the decoys, right up a hill, into a ravine… when… “Oh s—!” he must have said. Over the other hills came 2,000(!) Sioux and Cheyenne. It was over in 30 minutes, folks. All 81 in the party were killed. [The Indians supposedly lost only 20.]

Of course the Indians mutilated the bodies, so that when they were discovered by others sent out from Ft. Phil Kearny that same day (which was less than five miles away from the massacre), it was a pretty unsightly scene.

But there is more to this story. That evening, a man by the name of John “Portugee” Phillips left the fort to deliver the bad news back to the territorial headquarters in Laramie. A blizzard hit, yet Phillips rode all 236 miles (it’s now about 320 by car, incidentally, if you take the scenic route, that is, but then Phillips wasn’t concerned with such matters) in this blinding storm and arrived on December 26. Since he was going through hostile territory the whole time, he hid by day (so the storm actually helped him) and rode at night.

There are those who say that Phillips’s ride is one of the most underrated events in American history. Since I’m scared to death of horses to begin with, I’m in awe, quite frankly.

Anyway, where were we? Oh yeah, the Fetterman Massacre would prove to be the second highest loss of life suffered by the U.S. Army in any single conflict of the Indian Wars, next to Little Bighorn. And by 1868, the Army abandoned the 3 forts along the Bozeman Trail because the transcontinental railroad had been completed. In addition, the Government signed some new treaties with the Sioux, Cheyenne and others concerning Montana and Dakota Territory and the Indians thought all was finally settled. Ha! Far from it, Red Cloud. You didn’t realize White Man was such an a-hole, did ya now?!

Soon, White Man was bringing cattle into the area, and the stage was set for the climactic confrontation of June 1876; Custer’s Last Stand, the Indians’ final big victory, and the start of the road to Wounded Knee. 

Top 3 songs for the week 10/27/73:   #1 “Midnight Train To Georgia” (Gladys Knight & The Pips) #2 “Angie” (The Rolling Stones) #3 “Half-Breed” (Cher)…and…#4 “Ramblin Man” (The Allman Brothers Band) #5 “Keep On Truckin’” (Eddie Kendricks) #6 “Let’s Get It On” (Marvin Gaye) #7 “Paper Roses” (Marie Osmond) #8 “Heartbeat – It’s A Lovebeat” (The DeFranco Family…they rocked!…) #9 “That Lady” (Isley Brothers) #10 “Higher Ground” (Stevie Wonder) 

NCAA Football Quiz Answers: 1) R.C. Slocom coached Texas A&M during its best stretch, 1992-94, as they finished #7, #8, and #8 in the AP poll and lost to Notre Dame in the Cotton Bowl in both ’92 and ’93. 1994 they were ineligible. 2) Gary Kubiak quarterbacked A&M from 1979-82. [He then played 9 years as John Elway’s backup at Denver.] 3) Tony Franklin was A&M’s kicker from 1975-78. [Franklin had a 10-year NFL career with Philadelphia, New England and Miami.] 4) LaDainian Tomlinson is the only TCU rusher to gain 2,000 yards in a season, rushing for 2,158 in 2000. The year before he had 1,850.

Next Bar Chat, Thursday.