Kava And Other Culinary Treats

Kava And Other Culinary Treats

I presume that, except for vegetarians and other nontraditional

types, you had turkey with all the trimmings sometime during the

past week. Chances are you had the same thing more than once if

your leftovers were as plentiful as ours. One of my few culinary

talents (actually, I can”t think of any other) is preparing the

cranberry-apple-orange relish for the Thanksgiving feast. Ok, I

admit it”s not very complex a task – just grind up 2 delicious

apples, 2 navel oranges and 1 pound of cranberries in a blender

and add a cup or two of sugar. However, sorting through those

cranberries one by one to weed out the bad ones is a tedious job.

I guess after last week”s “cooking” column, you”re not surprised

that I”m pulling a Martha Stewart, giving out my prize recipes!

Surprisingly, when shopping for my oranges, the only ones that

looked good were Australian navel oranges. They turned out to

be quite tasty and the relish was up to my usual high standard.

However, they led me to reminisce about our tour to Australia

and New Zealand a decade or so ago. Naturally, I wondered

what other countries and cultures eat on their Thanksgiving days.

Fiji comes to mind. After our tour, we had planned to visit Tahiti,

including Bora Bora. However, while we were in New Zealand,

the natives became restless in Papeete. In fact, a New Zealand

Air crew was being held hostage and a flight attendant may have

been killed. In addition, the hotel in Papeete where we were

scheduled to stay before going to Bora Bora was the scene of

considerable harassment of tourists. So, we changed our plans

and visited Fiji instead.

We had a very enjoyable time there and the Fijians were quite

friendly. A standard bit of humor expressed by guides or

entertainers was telling us that we didn”t have to be worried about

being eaten! Back in 1951, an archaeologist named Gifford, at

the University of California, Berkeley, found human bones mixed

in with animal bones at ancient Fiji sites. After analyzing various

markings on the bones, Gifford”s opinion was that, with the

exception of fish, man was the favorite vertebrate food of the

Fijians! This helped to inspire cartoonists to come up with those

ubiquitous depictions of the big pot containing a missionary with

natives standing or dancing around, licking their chops. There

were, however, doubts as to whether Gifford”s work really

constituted definite proof of such culinary tastes. In particular,

there were questions as to whether the markings on the bones

were really made by humans or were the result of some other

nonhuman activity.

Often, an elegant experiment is one that you might say, “Hey, I

could have thought of that!” Bring on David DeGusta, a

graduate student, also at Berkeley. DeGusta, almost 50 years

later, has reanalyzed the bones Gifford collected from a midden

on the island of Viti Levu, the main island of Fiji. In case you”re

wondering, the word midden comes from the Scandinavian for

muckheap, which to me means a garbage dump. This Fijian

midden covered a period of 2,000 years but the article I read in

the October 1 issue of Science didn”t say which 2,000 years.

What DeGusta did was to compare the midden bones with bones

from a Fijian burial site, which happened to be near the midden

and spanned the same time period. DeGusta figured that the guys

and gals that were buried would have been treated with a bit more

respect than the ones who allegedly served as the main course for

dinner. He found that the bones from the midden bore cut marks

and breaks that were similar to the markings on the animal

remains in the midden. This was fairly good evidence for the

cannibalism theory. But the clincher came from the burial site

bones, which were quite normal, showing no signs of untoward

behavior. Conclusion – the Fijians did indeed eat each other!

This hunt for cannibalism by paleoanthropologists seems to be

quite the rage today. A second article in the same issue of

Science contains the research of a French and American team that

checked out 100,000 year-old bones found in a French cave.

They concluded that our Neanderthal cousins also consumed each

other on occasion and that among the delicacies were filet of

chewing muscle, tongue and a bit of bone marrow. Like the

Fijians, certain Neanderthal groups treated their fellows more

respectfully, burying them in ritualistic manner. Ironically,

investigators are taking this diverse behavior as evidence that the

Neanderthals were closer to us Homo sapiens types than we”ve

given them credit for. The recent finding of a skull of a young

child bearing characteristics of both Neanderthal and modern man

has been put forth as evidence for a little hanky panky going on

between the two groups. Whether this will hold up under further

scrutiny is certainly worth watching.

Back to Gifford”s statement about the Fijian diet, he did say that

fish was the major dietary item. While we were in Fiji, a handful

of us tourists got to participate in a “fish drive”. We gathered on

this crescent-shaped shoreline while the natives lined up quite far

out, probably 500 yards or more, in chest-high water. Each

person held a section of a long “net”, consisting of a line of vine

or rope on which were tied palm leaves closely enough spaced so

that fish would shy away from trying to swim through the rather

porous structure. I would guess the line to have been perhaps

200-400 yards in length. After standing out there in the hot sun

(it was noon) for about an hour waiting for some auspicious

moment, the line of natives started advancing to the shore,

herding the fish ahead of them. When they got within a hundred

yards or so from the shore, we were allowed to wade out to join

them. After the circle had been pretty well closed around the fish,

one of the natives pulled out a little bag of powder make from

some kind of tree or bush. He sprinkled it into the water and

Wow! All of a sudden, there were hordes of fish literally flying

through the air and swimming erratically at the surface of the

water. Everyone was feverishly trying to catch fish with the tool

of choice. The leader of our little group, a colorful Fijian who

was the entertainment director at our hotel, used his spear to land

the biggest fish of the day, a hefty 3-foot long specimen. I even

managed to snag one myself in my bare hands. To tell the truth, it

was only 3 inches long and definitely not a keeper.

Actually, this fish drive was a quite serious event in that the

natives depend on the fish drive for a significant part of their diet

and, because of damaging storms the year before, the palm leaves

to make the nets were in short supply. Therefore, the drives

could only be held every few weeks and we were quite fortunate

to witness one. Apparently, the powder they put in the water,

while having quite a stimulating effect on the fish at first, is

supposed to end up stunning them and make catching them easier.

While it was truly a memorable experience, I would be queasy

about doing it again, having seen an octopus and other strange

creatures plucked from the water by the natives.

We haven”t discussed what the Fijians drink. The day we left Fiji,

our trusty leader conducted a poolside ceremony. In this

ceremony, a potion of some sort was concocted, again from

powdered roots. When the big pot of muddy looking liquid was

ready, our leader insisted it was customary to pass around a half

coconut shell filled with the stuff and everybody was to take a

drink of it. My wife to this day berates me for following that

custom. Actually, I drank it and suffered no ill effects. In fact, I

don”t remember much about the long plane ride from Fiji to

Hawaii.

Recently, I read an article by a fellow visiting some island in the

South Pacific. He related his experience with a rather potent

drink that a visitor should imbibe when offered; otherwise the

visitor insults his host. In this article, probably from National

Geographic, the writer was taken by his guide/pilot to meet a

local chief. The writer took one drink, which he described as

tasting somewhat like manure. I certainly didn”t detect that

flavor, not that I”ve ever deliberately indulged in manure! His

guide/pilot apparently indulged quite heavily in the beverage and

had to be supported on the way back to the aircraft. Fortunately,

he apparently had sufficient sobriety left to pilot the writer back

safely to his destination.

But, I”ve wandered off the main thrust of this column. Getting

back to cooking, it seems as though the Neanderthals, even

though they had fire, had not perfected the art of roasting.

Instead, they seemed either to have eaten the humans raw or at

least sliced the meat from the bone prior to any heating. It also

seems that cannibalism was around as far back as 800,000 years,

based on evidence from a site in Spain. Thus, we can hardly

blame the more modern Fijians and, in fact, there is evidence that

in our own southwest there was a taste for human flesh.

At our Thanksgiving dinner, we had our young grandson, who

refused to join us in the customary turkey, my hard earned

cranberry relish, or anything else on the menu. Rather, he dined

on part of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and some ice cream,

despite our pleas to broaden his tastes. It occurred to me that it”s

a “good thing” (Martha again) that over the millennia, humankind

has evolved to broaden its menu sufficiently that we

overwhelmingly prefer to eat other vertebrates, not ourselves!

Allen F. Bortrum

Addendum: After finishing this column, I stumbled upon Rob

Kay”s Fiji Guide http://www.fijiguide.com/Facts/kava.html and found

out what I had drunk on Viti Levu. It was yaqona, the national

drink of Fiji, derived from the root of the kava plant, a member of

the pepper family. While yaqona is not an alcoholic drink, it does

have a generally calming effect and can generate “fuzzy-

headedness to mild euphoria”. It”s also a diuretic and probably

had a favorable effect on my high blood pressure! I am

reasonably sure that the yaqona I drank was not made by young

virgins chewing on the kava root before mixing, as reported by

some early explorers of Fiji. Mr. Kay”s Web site has 4 pages of

interesting material on yaqona. If you plan to visit someone on

Fiji, a good gift to bring along is a kava root or two, and you

won”t spend more than about $10! I suspect, but can”t confirm,

that the powder employed in the fish drive was also kava root.

Addendum to the Addendum: You herbal types are probably

saying, “This Bortrum guy is really behind the times.” Searching

the Web for “kava”, I was surprised to find there is currently a big

boom in kava as a purported anxiety treatment and even a sexual

stimulant! I found an article attributed to the Wall Street Journal

on the emergence of kava as an herbal superstar and a possible

alternative to Xanax and Valium. No wonder I don”t remember

anything about the flight out of Fiji! Perhaps I was actually ahead

of the times when I imbibed that yaqona. Please don”t take this as

an endorsement in any sense! I am not a physician, herbalist or

any kind of expert in this field and would be quite leery about

taking any herb that has not been extensively studied and does not

have the medical community”s approval.